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Homemade Supplies

 
Raw Materials
  • Nylon pack cloth:               Heavy, strong cloth that is normally used on packs (bet ya didn't see that coming).
  • Nylon cloth:                       Just standard, light nylon cloth.
  • Breathable Nylon:             Like a cheap form of Gore-tex™
  • Ripstop Nylon:                  Nylon that is woven in a criss-cross pattern that prevents rips for occurring.
  • Mosquito Netting:              A very fine, light screen. Often called "No see em" netting.
  • Polyester/Cotton cloth:     Just what I said there. Cloth that is 50% cotton and 50% Polyester.
  • Insulation:                         Down or equivalent.
  • Open cell foam:                Foam that if squeezed doesn't pop or crackle. it is commonly used for padding on beds and old mattresses.
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Day Pack
 
This can be made out of a pair of blue jeans. Just fold the legs so that the bottoms (around the ankle) touch the belt loops. Use a length of rope to tie the legs to the belt loops. Load the backpack from the waist and use the legs as the shoulder straps.
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Cook Kit 
  • Stove:                              (See "STOVE")
  • Pots:                                Old pots and pans from garage sales. Coffee cans also work.
  • Eating/stirring tools:         Chopsticks
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Tent
 
A rain shelter can be made by tying a line between two trees and setting a tarp up over it. Stake the tarp down (and out to the desired area to be covered) and tie a bandanna to the line on both sides of the tarp close enough to re-direct water running down the line.
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Stuff Sack
 
Cut two pieces of nylon and sew the bottom and sides together.
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First-Aid Kit
 
Go to the store and buy Band-Aids™, gauze pads, medical tape, roller bandages, butterfly bandages (Band-Aids™ form of emergency stitches), Moleskin™, elastic bandage, tweezers, antiseptic stuff, triangular bandage, pain relievers, and coins.
You may as well just buy a small professionally made kit.
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Pack Cover
 
Plastic garbage bags are good for open areas. You're better off buying a professionally made cover otherwise.
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Pepsi Can Stove
 
A Pepsi Can works the best because of their sharper edges. Here are the step-by-step instructions to make your stove:
 
STEP 1. MAKE THE BURNER HOLES.
With the push pin (or small drill bit) make a circular ring of 24 to 32 evenly spaced holes OUTSIDE and concentric with the circular ridge on the bottom of the soda can.
The location of the holes can be marked with a marking pen before making the holes. A hammer can be used to tap on the push pin. The hammer will save wear and tear on your thumb and will provide more penetration control. Smaller holes are made if the push pin is not allowed to penetrate its full length.
 
STEP 2. FORM THE LARGE CENTRAL HOLE.
Holding the can firmly, lightly score along the inside rim while turning the can until you get a pretty smooth circle. You can keep scoring with a little more pressure until the bottom pops out. There is no need to actually push the knife all the way through. You get a much cleaner cut.
 
STEP 3. CUT OUT THE TOP AND BOTTOM SECTIONS.
Cut the top can section 20 mm (3/4 in) in height.
 
Use a second soda can for the base section. Cut the base section 25 mm (1 in) in height. A good cut will vary by a millimeter or less in height around the entire circumference. The precision of the cut is more important for the bottom section than the top.
 
To make an even cut, draw a circle around the entire circumference of the can with a marking pen. Keep the marker stationary while you rotate the soda can about its long axis with its bottom on a flat surface. To keep the marker stationary, use a piece of cardboard with a hole cut in it to insert the marker tip. Actually the cardboard should have two holes, one 20 mm (3/4 in) from a straight edge and one 25 mm (1 in) from a straight edge for the top and bottom section, respectively.
 
STEP 4. MAKE THE INNER WALL OF THE STOVE.
From the walls of a soda can, cut out a rectangle 35 mm (1 3/8 in) wide and 190 mm (7 1/2 in) long. To do this is to use scissors to horizontally cut off the top and bottom of the soda can close to the ends so that you have a cylinder with ragged edges. Cut vertically straight across the cylinder to form a long rectangle with ragged long sides. Lay the aluminum down on a cutting board and place a ruler on top parallel to a long side. Trim off one ragged long side with the utility knife using the ruler as a guide. Measure 35 mm (1 3/8 in) from the new clean edge and repeat the cut on the opposite long side. The long sides of the rectangle should be as parallel as possible. Trim the ends so that the rectangle is 190 mm (7 1/2 in) long.
Cut a slit into each of the long sides of the rectangle. The two slits should be 150 to 152 mm apart (5 15/16 to 6 in) and each long side of the rectangle should have only one slit. Slit depth (or length) should be slightly more than half the length of a short side, or about 20 mm (3/4 in). Make the slits as perpendicular to the long sides as you can. Center the slits, that is, if your rectangle is 190 mm (7 1/2 in) long the slits should be about 20 mm (3/4 in) from each end.
 
To allow alcohol to flow from the middle of the stove to the perimeter, make three gaps along one of the long edges of the rectangle. Measuring from one of the slits, mark the location of the gaps with a marking pen at 25 mm (1 in), 75 mm (3 in), and 125 mm (5 in). Form the gaps by using a common hole punch set in from the edge about 90% of its diameter or 6 to 7 mm (1/4 in) deep. An alternative way to make a gap is to cut 2 parallel slits about 6 to 7 mm (1/4 in) deep and about 3 mm (1/8 in) apart into the edge of the band. Fold the tab 180 degrees up against the painted side of the rectangle or bend the tab back and forth to break it off.
 
Interlock the two slits of the long rectangle to make a circular band. It is possible to interlock the slits so that the ends of the band are on the inside or the outside of the formed cylinder. If you interlock the slits so that the ends of the band are outside the cylinder then glue them down with Krazy glue™. This helps position the band into the grooves of the stove bottom and top. A small piece of Scotch tape can be used instead of glue. If you interlock the slits so that the ends of the band are inside the cylinder you won't have to glue or tape them down, but the final product doesn't look quite as good.
 
STEP 5. MAKE SLITS IN THE TOP SECTION.
With scissors, cut vertical slits in the vertical sides of the top soda can section. The slits start from the cut edge of the can section and should end 2 mm from the shoulder (rounded edge) of the can. If you cut the slits too deeply flames may leak out at that point. Make eight slits evenly spaced around the circumference of the can.
 
STEP 6. ASSEMBLE THE STOVE.
Insert the cylindrical band into the circular groove of the stove bottom so that the edge with the gaps is down. The circumference of the band should be the same as the circumference of the circular groove. If the band fits too loosely or too tightly, make a new one. A band that is slightly smaller than the groove and fits snugly with gentle pushing is acceptable if not preferable. The top of the band should extend 8 to 10 mm (5/16 to 3/8 in) higher than the top of the bottom section. This ensures that the top soda can will rest against the band and not the bottom section.
 
When fitting the top and bottom soda can sections together make sure the top can with the slits fits over the OUTSIDE of the bottom can. You will need a thin screw driver (or a feeler gauge or a small flat piece of soda can) to help ease the slit tabs of the top section over the bottom section.
Don't put a permanent bend in either section. This process is made easier if you fit one side of the top section 5 mm (3/8 in) over the bottom section and then tape the two sections together at that point with masking tape. Then use the thin screw driver to ease the other tabs over the bottom section.
 
When all the tabs are over the bottom section remove the masking tape and gently press the two sections together. At the same time manipulate the inner wall into the grooves of the top and bottom sections. When the band is positioned correctly, press the two sections together tightly. If you made your band correctly the upper and lower sections and the stove ends should be perfectly parallel.
 
Pull 300 mm (12 in) of High Temperature Flue Tape off the roll and cut it in half lengthwise giving you two pieces of tape 3/4 x 12 in, which is enough for two stoves. Trim an inch off each end to have a clean, wrinkle-free piece. Tape over the slits and the junction of the top and bottom sections. The straightest edge of the tape should be the upper edge and should be placed right at the shoulder (rounded edge) of the section with the burner holes. As you install the tape, burnish it by rubbing with your thumb, but don't push too hard and put a dent in the stove.
 
Congratulations, you now have a completed a Pepsi Can Stove! Pepsi One cans are silver and blend in well with the foil tape. However, if you want total coverage of the paint on the sides of the stove, then measure the width of the flat side of your stove (should be about 20-22 mm) and cut the tape exactly to that width.
 
Direction with pictures and more designs are available at PCT hiker.com
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